In one of our weeks up in the North, late June 2023, the weather had been pretty fair during the week but there was one particular day that looked like wall to wall blue skies and sunshine. John was itching for a little adventure and an opportunity to stretch our legs a little further than 'our side' of the Cowal peninsula without being massively over ambitious.
We'd looked at the Isle of Gigha as a nice place to go for a day trip, inspired by their lovely milk that we can get locally, and it looked like a good candidate. A short drive down the road to Portavadie to catch the ferry to Tarbert (ferries every hour and only 20 minutes long) - no need to book. Then about 20 miles further on to Campbeltown and take another little (wee) ferry to the (wee) Isle which is about 2 miles west of the Kintyre peninsula (ferries every 1/2 hour).
We got to the first ferry with a good 20 minutes in the hand, but missed the first one as a static caravan took up literally half the boat! No bother, and the hour passed quite quickly watching seagulls flying high with shellfish and dropping them on the harbour to break them open, and listening to the Oyster Catchers screeching and swooping over the water.
The drive on the Kintyre peninsula was fine - going past house two from Escape to the Country! It definitely wasn't the right house and seeing it again left us only with a reaffirmation.
The Isle is about 6 miles long, 1.5 miles wide and has a population of less than 200 and John was eager to do this on pushbikes, so we left the car and took the second ferry with just the bikes and our swimming kit. Parking up at Tayinloan for the ferry there is a big overspill carpark to cater for day trippers taking advantage of the Island's small scale to explore on foot, bike or water (kayaks). After a short wait for the incoming ferry, wandering through the dune grass, we hopped onboard, then twenty minutes and you're there. While you wait there's also a cafe - we didn't have time this trip but noted for the next!
From the ferry, we cycled up the main road (there is only one....) which runs North/South. We were heading North around 4 miles to 'the twin beaches'. The single track road is fairly flat, and the traffic is minimal and courteous, like stepping back 50 years to a time when cars were fairly scarce - what's the rush when it's only 6 miles to anywhere? We passed 'The Wee Isle Dairy' and said hello to the cows enjoying the long summer day, and also the golf course, and soon we were at the beach. It was down a path about 200 metres off the road, good enough to ride the biles along. We didn't quite have the place all to ourselves, but looking back it was near perfect - crystal clear sea, beautiful sand, views off to the mountains of Jura and a very pleasant swim! 9.5 out of 10.
The Islanders have bought the island and are putting a lot into it - for example making walking tracks, many of which have uninterrupted views over the water to Islay and beyond to encourage visitors, and absolutely keeping its natural charm and beauty. We wish them well.
On the way back, passing The Druid's standing stone which we read probably dates back to the 1st Century. The landmark is also called 'The Hanging Stone' and the name comes from a belief that people who were found guilty at 'The Court Hill' nearby had their heads positioned in the cleft of the stone and were then left to hang to their deaths. Difficult to understand how often the stone would have been used with a population that was never about 1000! Another superstition is that betrothed couples are supposed to hold hands through the dip in the stone for luck - we gave it a go, every little helps! There is also a legend that the stone is a Giant's Tooth, thrown by a giant with tooth ache. The stone marks the narrowest point of the island and can be seen from the sea on both East and West sides.
We stopped at the Island's central point of habitation Ardminish - just 20 houses or so! The shop there sells Wee Isle Dairy ice Cream, of course, and we enjoyed some in the sun with the swallows darting around our heads. The church there is lovely and always open for visitors. Christianity came to Gigha around about 563AD with the missionary monk, St Columba, who was travelling up the coast of Argyll from Ireland to Iona. Over the centuries several churches were built and fell into disrepair. By the early 20th century a new church building was needed and the minister at the time, Rev Donald MacFarlane, had been an architect. He designed the present building, which was relocated on “Cnocan a' Chiuil” (the hill of music), and constructed from the black whinstone of the previous church. It was completed in 1923. When the church was built there was only one stained glass window, dedicated to those who gave their lives in the 1914-18 war. It depicts Jesus on the cross, with the words of Jesus on the night before he died, “Greater love hath no man than this, that a man lay down his life for his friends.” (John 15:13). Below the cross is the empty tomb reminding us that Jesus is alive today and that through faith in him we have the hope of eternal life.
We carried on South to check out Achamore Gardens. We cycled past the new island beauty therapy rooms and wee Isle Diary cafe, and then on through the beautifully dappled shade of a woodland path for around a mile to get there. In the early 20th century Achamore Gardens was mostly woodland, planted to provide cover for rabbits, pheasants, and other game animals for shooting. Gardeners ensured that the walled garden produced fruit and vegetables all year round for the big house. In 1944, Colonel Sir James Horlick arrived in Gigha as the new laird and set about his ambitious project of creating a home for rare and exotic plants in this sheltered spot. Sir James and his gardeners carved out the planting compartments that you see in the woods today, often using dynamite to get rid of unwanted trees. Today, under community ownership, the gardens are being methodically restored by dedicated volunteers. We felt they had a long way to go as we wandered around for a while feeling quite lost, and everything except the walled garden felt untended, but once we found that little oasis we could see why this garden is such a gem.
As you find in many places in Scotland, folks sell things from little stalls at the end of their drive - and on the way back to the ferry we picked up a lemon drizzle cake which was delicious!
The short cycle ride back to the ferry got us there in good time to join the day trippers, farm vehicles and commuters (teachers for the primary school on the island!) The photo below of the blue sea, sky and boat, was our last view of Gigha, as we stood on warm white sand, with the almost imperceptible lap of the crystal water at our toes and the hot sun baking our shoulders. Glorious!
Back home via Tarbert, which is a lovely fishing port but with an average fish and chip shop!
We intend to go back to Gigha - pick the right day and take the bike not the car - why not join us?
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