16th April Tuesday
OK and we are off, for real! We left Glendaruel with Liz's Mum and Dad holding fort whilst the Wren kitchen fitters did their stuff and headed to Edinburgh airport - a lovely sunny day. Edinburgh airport is quite civilised, being relatively small, and we had no problems dropping the hold luggage and even getting John's meal drink through security scan (as fortunately it had a prescription label on it!).
Our flight wasn't until 5pm so time for some food before the flight as we would be landing late (9.20pm local time) and missing out on meals. The plane was bizarrely only half full and we had bagged row 1 with extra leg room so it all went quickly and comfortably despite some interesting turbulence. Landing at Naples we found that it was raining quite hard showers and we had to dodge them walking to the overnight accommodation just 10 minutes away.
Getting in resembled an escape room experience. First we had to enter the code into the key safe outside and take one key and one coin. The key opened the door to the building and the coin had to be inserted into a machine in the lift before it would take us up to floor 2. Next we found another key safe, labelled number three, in a bank of four safes. Inside were two keys. Next insert the white key into the door and turn clockwise to open. Enter the flat and go to room three and use the red key to enter the room! It was a nice, clean room although the traffic outside made itself known through the night.
Just before sleep John confessed that his stoma had given up again and it had been 24 hours since it had worked. Trying not to worry, we told ourselves it had gone for longer than that in the past and been ok. But we were both thinking - why now? Can't we have one week without the stress to enjoy this holiday together?
17th April Wednesday
The hotel location worked a treat - 2 minutes walk to a cafe where we had a breakfast voucher, and the cafe even had a back door straight into the car hire lot. Hertz were quick and efficient and we got a small Lancia with only 2000 km on the clock (in blue for those interested). Apple Carplay, annoying as it is, came through on the car no problem to give us sat nav and we were off, heading via Salerno towards our hotel on the East side of the country.
Liz had researched things to do on the drive and one was an abandoned mountain top village, and the hour spent getting there was worth the investment - it really was spectacular and sad to see. Romagnano Al Monte is practically on the cliff edge of a mountain top and was abandoned when it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1980. We squeezed through a gate to get in and walked quietly round listening to a dog bark fairly close by, only to be caught up by three young lads who also turned up to have a mooch round. A strange place, it was a mix of complete dereliction, half redone buildings and a brand new build with security cameras and a lift to complete it, up to a viewing patio. But not a soul in sight. Stunning.
Quite spookily, we went back down the mountain a bit to find lunch, and the small town we stopped in looked identical to the derelict town in design. Remarkable how 'typical' these places are. It was raining again and a clap of thunder forced to eat inside, a square of pizza each and a delicious little pastry and fruit juice to finish.
We also called in at a Greek temple - the Temple of Hera / Palatine Tables, over 2000 years old which was literally by the side of the road we were driving on. Just walk right in and check it out - just there for the taking and no charge for entry. A pretty little spot and a nice stop.
Just after 5pm we were at the hotel, which we had found through Unusual Hotels of the World. Masseria Montenapoleone - not the cheapest accommodation option, but an absolutely unique setting, hotel and room for the next few nights. The hotel is set amongst fields of olive and fruit trees, which we were invited to both explore and to help ourselves to - lovely ripe prickly pears, kumquats and loquats plus lemons and bergamots. More about the hotel later!
We headed off for food. This part of Italy, evening meals don't happen until at least 7:30pm but we were lucky enough to find a restaurant, La Giara, open a little earlier and serving good food (suitable for John's simpler needs and Liz's desire to stay on track with vegetable input - not that easy in a posh hotel!) The food was tasty with good portion sizes, and we came away stuffed with grilled chicken salad (Liz) and burger and chips (John).
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