After our trip to Italy in April, we thought long and hard about where to go next. Neither of us likes the Mediterranean heat in the summer and neither of us was up for something on the other side of the planet. We looked at Ireland and, lovely as that would have been, thought we'd see natural beauty easier here in Scotland than making the trip across the Irish Sea.
So late in July we headed off to one of the closest islands to us and one we'd paid a day trip visit to a couple of times before - Arran. We weren't disappointed!
Setting off from home and taking 2 short ferries (Portavadie to Tarbert then Claonig to Lochranza) we arrived on this lovely island - known as 'Scotland in minature'. Heading down the west side of the island we got fantastic views across the water to the Campbell peninsula. First couple of stops were at an old graveyard in the middle of nowhere by the side of the road and a bonus 'tin tabernacle' (church) that we hadn't known was there. It was open so, after taking a few photos of its pretty location, we popped in! Next we visited some great neolithic sites of stone circles, standing stones and burial cairns. The first neo site was Auchagallon Stone Circle - we had this one to ourselves - it's a circle of stones surrounding the burial cairn of an important chief from around 4000 years ago. Second stop was Machrie Moor where there is both a stone circle (Finhal's Cauldron Seat), a cairn and some impressive standing stones over a wide area. The significance of the standing stones is not known, they could have been like Stonehenge and aligned to certain events in the year or just for ceremonial purposes. We had perfect weather (not too hot) and amazing, expansive views. We then headed off to the other side of the island, Brodick, and our hotel for the next 3 nights - the Douglas. A great hotel, recently renovated to a high standard. We'd bagged a room on the top floor with sea view (probably because it was the only one left!). The room, and bathroom, were enormous, as was the bed - no complaints!
Next day, after a great breakfast, we headed out first to Brodick Castle. We only wanted to do the gardens, which were pretty amazing - especially the walled garden. Some lovely views out across the bay to Brodick and beyond. The stand out feature was the Bavarian summerhouse, with the interior completely covered in pinecone decorations. Just down the road is a beach shack serving cocktails and giving a great chill out space, so we quenched our thirst there - Liz with a White Russian and John with a great IPA from the Loch Ness brewery! Next stop was back up towards Lochranza and a lovely river running down towards the sea which would make a great spot for a cooling dip - it's marked on googlemaps, but not in the right place, which just adds to the fun of it! It is part of the Arran Coastal Way walk, and not another person shared that path with us that afternoon.
Back down the island, we headed for a headland where apparently there are some sailors graves, which are actually just more standing stones, and it was a great walk to a headland with expansive views out to sea and back to Holy Isle, as well as a view down to Shore Cottage, right on the beach and inaccesible by car. We wouldn't want to carry our shopping down the narrow steps to it every week!
The days are still long in July so John sneaked in another walk as it was only mid afternoon! We'd not put Eas Mor on the list, but they have a lovely cafe (The Forest of theFalls Cafe) so John thought it would be a good place to go - and it was only ten miles or so back down the island. Eas Mor - quick lesson in Gaelic: Eas = waterfall, Mor = big or high. So after some coffee and cake we had a bonus mile walk up the glen to the waterfall and a random 'library' made famous on instagram. It was a shed filled inside with notes and drawings and quotes, all pinned to the walls.
On the way we'd seen signs for 'Arran Simply Thai' on the loop road to Kildonan - in gaelic kil = saint, so this was Saint Donan. We didn't know what the sign meant (a restaurant? a manufacturer of curry paste?) but thought it was worth a punt - and it was worth the punt! Basically a couple, Thai wife, British hubby, have a food trailer and serve great Thai from their front garden. We had Pork Thai curry and Chicken Pad Thai overlooking the sea from a picnic table next to the trailer. It truly was delicious and really rounded the day off perfectly!
Day 3, we tried (and failed) to track down the studio for a semi-famous stone sculptor, Tim Pomeroy, but it was a long shot anyhow. The main event of the day was another walk, this time from Whiting Bay, up Glenashdale to the waterfall Eas a’ Chrannaig (fall of the artificial island apparently) and giant's graves. It's a 2 hour long, 3 mile walk with a lot of strenuous up hill to the giant's graves, but the views and whole ambience at this neolithic site are so beautiful and tranquil! Moving on, the forest tracks take you down to the waterfalls which are quite spectacular and there is a great viewing platform. We nervously watched some crazy people taking photos right on the edge of the 140ft drop.
Afterwards we headed back along the south of the island to see the Lagg distillery and visitor site and the Honesty Box shop at one of the farms, then on to Kildonan to see the dinosaur footprint on the sea shore and go for a swim (Liz) at Silver Sands. The food from the day before had truly been so good that we headed back for more - this time pork Thai curry and beef red Thai curry - both excellent.
Day 4 and last day - there's only so much smoked salmon and scrambled eggs you can eat for breakfast! One final walk: to King's Caves on the western side of the island - a 2 hour walk through forests and down a cliff, to the beach to find natural caves with some surprises, black guillemots and spectacular views across the sea. A lovely drive back up to Lochranza, spotting seals sunning themselves on rocks, and the early afternoon ferries back home.
Now home with the cats, who had been fed by a neighbour, but obviously missed us! We had a lovely evening and even finally put up the hammock for a quick relax.
We hugely recommend Arran - we saw so much and it's easy to get around this small island. It also feels more on the up than Bute (sorry to say) and more scenic than Isaly (sorry to say). We think we'll be back again - maybe next time in the winter to see snow on the mountains!
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