The trip that really lit the fire for the Scottish dream was our ten day tour of the Outer Hebrides. We set off from Oban heading to Barra at the Southern end of the archipelago - a mere three and a half hour ferry journey - time and distance are often under estimated in Scotland!
There is something magical and uniquely Scottish about taking a Calmac ferry from the mainland to, or past, some of the many small islands. The ferries may be a little ageing and on occasion (more to come on this) unreliable but they are an essential service for the islanders. Without them, life on the islands simply would not be possible. Today's cargo and passengers will vary from sheep being taken to the mainland, all sizes and shapes of camper vans and locals going about their business. Stand on the deck and watch the mainland disappear into the distance leaving all your stresses behind.
As you head out to the islands, population density takes a tumble in comparison to mainland Scotland. The 15 inhabited islands of the Outer Hebrides have a population of less than 30,000 people - yet the islands, top to toe, extend over 100 miles ... oh and about 20% of those people live in one town, Stornaway.
But let's not get too obsessed with facts and figures: Scotland, and especially rural Scotland, has a population density significantly lower than where we live right now in the West Midlands. That to us has two benefits. Firstly - less people, less hustle and bustle = less stress, and secondly - the less people you come into contact with, the more friendly and positive that interaction will be. Think about it - you're more likely to pass the time of day with the staff in the cafe or your neighbour if they are the only people you've seen all week, and that gives a better feeling of belonging. This comedy sketch might help.
We honestly have never seen as many, or as beautiful, beaches, coastline and water as in Scotland and in particular on the West Coast and Islands. These views above were our first taste of what the Outer Hebrides had to offer as we landed on the Island of Barra and took an early evening ride out to Vatersay - a narrow spit of land with a curved beaches on each side, both as beautiful as each other - and virtually void of people!
It seems that on the Islands everyone is at it - baking, jamming, knitting. We visited handmade soap producers, Harris tweed museum, artists of all kind and a bookbinder. Local produce in abundance, often in the most random locations, sometimes run with honesty boxes.
Speaking of honesty, you may have heard the 'urban myth' that on the Outer Hebrides folks don't lock their front door, and leave their car keys in the car. Update: it's not a myth! Most islanders don't see the need to lock the front door, and what better place to leave your car keys but in the car? (You'll never lose them, will you!) More on REAL island life in a future post, when we get the lowdown from an islander over crab on homemade oatcakes.
Scotland has a rich heritage, forget Stonehenge, you can walk freely amongst the standing stones at Calanais on the Isle of Lewis, oh - and unlike Stonehenge (£22 to you sir), it's free and has a lovely visitor centre serving great food next door. The black houses have also been restored and house a really interesting museum into what island life was once like.
One of John's pet hates is the ideological pursuit of autonomous cars. They'd never work in Scotland or anywhere else that have single track roads reliant on ever increasingly rare commodities of common sense, intuition, patience and courtesy. But the roads here are great for motorcycling - open, winding, good quality and quiet - perfect.
After an amazing week on the islands we headed back over to Skye for the final couple of nights. The Isle of Skye would ordinarily have been an amazing place to tour, but after the Outer Hebrides, it felt busy with tourists. We took the hike up to the Old Man of Storr, on a bright and sunny day, and were rewarded with views across the sea to smaller islands of Rona, Ramsay and the mainland. It was crowded though - with 100s (not 1000s!) of people making the climb. People must either not know about the Outer Hebrides' beauty, or be put off by the extra effort it takes to get there.
The beach in the background to this photo is called Coral Beach, it's one of the most beautiful beaches on the Isle of Skye. It's actually fossilised and sun-bleached algae, but coral sounds much more romantic and truly unique. We also went in search of the fossilised dinosaur footprints that are somewhere on the beaches of Skye, but we left doubtful that the little shapes we saw were the real deal.
Another thing that we love about Scotland is some of the national musical treasures, one of which John discovered on Facebook during the covid lockdown: Esla McTaggart and her husband Gary. She posted daily videos of her playing lilting Scottish tunes on her violin, and other instruments, in a variety of wonderful locations on the Outer Hebrides. This site covers their story about building a home on the Islands and their music. Her undying enthusiasm and slightly breathless, giddy intros were always a little warm and magical moment in an otherwise miserable, groundhog day period, and we looked forward to her musical interlude every day.
Mark Knopfler is also one of our favourite singers and an outstanding guitarist. He was born in Glasgow and we have seen him at an unforgettable concert. Liz is not a fan of the film Local Hero, but John loves it: the music and the stunning scenery tie together everything about Scotland that we want in our lives.
Calvin Harris, Gerry Rafferty and Primal Scream all also feature on our playlists as stand out performers.
Liz's favourite mystery of the islands is the rumour of space missions being launched from the Shetlands from 2023. The SaxaVord Spaceport has a flashy website and even merchandise, but I still get a sense that it is far from reality just yet. But, we will be aiming to watch the first rocket launch if and when it finally happens.
Liz says: I find it hard to put into words how easily the Islands crept into my heart and memory, and how strong the pull back there is. I have never felt so perfectly calm and tranquil as I did while we were there. The views out over the water, the purple heather, the fresh cool air, the serene white beaches - it is pure magic to me. To be able to feel totally at peace every day, just by enjoying the view and talking to positive likeminded people is my holy grail.
John says: If you live in places like the islands it's essential to get stuck in, be part of the reciprocal community and to support the local economies of these unique locations, especially new and establishing companies like Harris Gin and North Uist Distillery.
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