Liz never went to Scotland as a child, but John does have vague memories of camping and cycling with his parents there - midges and rain mainly!
Our first holiday to Scotland together was a weekend trip to Edinburgh in 2000, before we were married, so, very much in the warmth of a young and exciting relationship where everything we did together was still new and an adventure. These sorts of times settle in your memory like stars in the night sky, and remain as luminous fixed points that you return to time and again, and that will guide your course through the rest of your life. This was a time before digital cameras were commonly owned, so here are a couple of photos taken from prints. One is from the top of Arthur's Seat, looking down over Edinburgh, and the other is in the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens. This was our first real experience of the hospitality of Scotland.
This first trip was followed by a Christmas at Aviemore, a summer holiday week in a camper van with the kids and then, a few years ago, a motorbike trip up to, and the length of, the Outer Hebrides (more about these later!). So after these interactions with Scotland, its people and its weather why do we love it?
In all our travels we can honestly say that we've found the Scottish people friendly, open and welcoming. Maybe that's because we try to tread lightly (as tourists we recognise we are guests) or that (without getting into a debate on Scottish Independence) as English people we envy the national pride and open ability to display it. People seem to make an effort to actively be Scottish and be proud to be associated with this great country, what it stands for, its heritage and its products. Some memorable times include spending a day at a highland games at the Cowal Gathering at Dunoon where there is something for everyone and many unique Scottish sports and pastimes are proudly showcased by men, women and children. To sum up what Scottish pride sounds like, imagine 20 bagpipe bands all tuning up at the same time! We enjoyed a wonderful family day out watching tossing the caber, the hammer throw and wrestling.
One of the things we loved about visiting Edinburgh was the familiarity of the city, thanks to being a huge Ian Rankin fan. His fabulous Rebus series is set in and around Edinburgh and his writing brings the city to life in a way few other authors seem to. So, exploring the sights that had featured in books I had devoured over recent years made the city feel somewhat like home.
Another attraction we visited in Edinburgh this first time was Mary King's Close. This was before it became over commercialised, so it was still reliant on atmosphere and suggestion. Liz is a sceptic, so when the guide turned up a huge black cape and top hat she was amused. Talk of poltergeists, scratch marks and nights spent in the bricked up streets that became tombs for the living went over her head. But, as we neared the end of the tour the guide pushed open the door to a house with a long dark corridor, with a huge mirror at the end and two doors off to the side to rooms where the contents remained mysterious. Liz's imagination kicked into overdrive and all of a sudden she was spooked and nervous. A brilliant tour that almost made her believe!
We were ready for more of this warm and magical country - more of this in part two, later...
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